Monday, September 16, 2013

Lyon — Ici on parle français. Et l'anglais. Et polonaise.

This photo doesn't belong here but refuses to move to its designated spot.

I'm writing this in Gdańsk, wondering how I'll ever convey the richness and warmth of our time in Lyon.  We were embraced by family, a family fully alive with love and music, laughter and energy.

But first —  let's back up. We left our hotel in Milan on Thursday morning, hoofed it over to the subway, grabbed a hurried coffee and croissant among the rush hour commuters at the train station, and boarded the train for Paris. Hardly an hour had passed when we began to see mountains in the distance!  The Italian Alps! The rails took us into tunnel after tunnel. The mountains came closer and closer as we came into France.


We switched trains in Chambéry-Challes, and came into Lyon in mid-afternoon. Our cousin, Marie Therese, was waiting for us on the platform! Long hugs, kisses on both cheeks! I had not seen Marie since 1995 when Zach and I were in Paris. Zach last saw Marie in France in 2003, when he was 18. 


Marie's maternal grandmother and my maternal grandmother were sisters, born in Krosno, Poland. Marie was born in Paris. We met for the first time in 1967 when I came through Paris on my way home from Nigeria. 

Marie now lives with her daughter's family just outside Lyon in Champagne-au-Mont-d'Or. We got from train station to home via Metro and bus. Soon we were surrounded by Marie's daughter and three delightful granddaughters.
Juliette, Marie, Clara, Raphaëlle, Zach, Amelie

Amelie, Zach and Raphaëlle

Raphaëlle and her sisters play with their grandma's dove, which seems only slightly traumatized.
Juliette, Marie's daughter, works as an environmental advocate. AND... Juliette is a phenomenal cook! (Why did I not take photos of that amazing Quiche Lorraine?) After we fooled around at the piano a bit on our first afternoon, Juliette brought out a marvelous instrument to show us — the bandoneon!


Mais, òu est le père?  Here he is! 


During the day, Fabien works long hours as an advocate for l'Education Populaire at the MJC. After hours, home with the family, Fabien is trying to figure out the intricacies of the bandoneon. Together, we listened to the music of Astor Piazzola, who used this instrument to make the richest of tangos. 


And, Fabien plays a very cool jazz piano.


On our third and final night in Lyon, Fabien played jazz downstairs while we packed our suitcases up above. So very nice!

There's so much more to tell you about Lyon!  And now that we've been in Poland for a whole day, lots to say about Gdańsk!  When will I ever catch up? So, consider this Lyon, Part I.  More to come as soon as possible. Pillow time now.






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