Córdoba

The sun came out yesterday as I arrived in Córdoba! I like Córdoba! I'd like any place with sunshine!

I'm in a charming little budget hotel on another tiny street — this one just big enough to let a car pass through. (Too bad about that.) This neighborhood, which includes the Mezquita, is called La Juderia, a part of Córdoba that once housed Jews and Muslims and Christians. All at the same time, but not necessarily harmoniously.

The door to my hotel is just up the street on the left, where the building turns white.

The hotel, El Antiguo Convento, is just what its name says — it was formerly a convent.

One enters through this patio, a very friendly place. 

Yesterday afternoon, after a long nap, I walked about four minutes to this little plaza facing the Mezquita, and enjoyed a cold beer before going in.

Once inside the walls, I found this lovely, peaceful courtyard.

These little aqueducts in the stone floor actually contain flowing water.

This morning, I came back to take a look at the inside. I bought a ticket, and before I entered, my heart sank. The ticket said it was for La Catedral! Not another cathedral! I thought I was going into the mosque!  I stepped inside, and the unexpected beauty took my breath away.

It was like stepping into a forest of columns and arches. Double arches.

 

So here's the story:  Back when the Visigoths were in charge of things, early Christians built a church here to honor St. Vincent, a martyr. (A few remains of the original church of St. Vincent, dating back to the 6th century, are on display here.) Then, when the Muslims came in, around 785, they destroyed the church and built this enormous mosque above the ruins. 

When King Ferdinand III conquered the Muslims in 1236, the Christians immediately began praying in the mosque.  Two hundred years later, annoyed by having to pray among all these columns, the Christians constructed a cathedral right in the middle of the mosque!

Floor tiles are very interesting. No idea if this one is Muslim or Christian. (You can tell I did not take a guided tour.)

Lately, Muslims have asked to come into their former mosque to pray. Vatican has denied permission.

Traveling lets me know how little I know. Some people prepare themselves for a trip by reading up about the place before they leave home. I'm just the opposite. I walk in ignorant, and leave knowing for sure that I'm ignorant. But now I'm ready to learn.