Las Alpujarras

Granada is near Spain’s Sierra Nevada mountains. I decided that I’m done with big cities and museums and monuments.  Now I just want to hole up in a little place of beauty, take long walks, nap in the afternoon, and disappear into a novel. It’s called a “vacation” and I can’t remember when I last had one of those, except maybe the annual three days on Rock Island.

This morning started with breakfast of chocolate caliente con churros in a little hole-in-the-wall place where the mail carrier had stopped in for a cup of coffee.

A sidewalk vendor selling fruits displayed these wonderful pomegranates! Ha ha! Now I'm seeing pomegranates everywhere!

On the way back to my hotel, I stopped to buy some soap from this man who makes it himself in his home. 

I got to the bus station just in time to catch a bus leaving in 4 minutes to Lanjarón, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas. It’s only about half an hour south of Granada. As we neared the town, through the bus window I could see windmills spinning! Yes!

After settling into my hotel — a 1940s sort of place that’s been well maintained — I went to the restaurant next door for a bit of lunch. Here’s the Ensalada de la Casa:

Note the elegant GLASS bottle of water. This area is famous for its spring water that bubbles up out of the ground in several places around town. Sorry I didn’t take a photo of the seafood soup that followed, or of the woman who served it, ladeling it out with such pride and pleasure.

Drinking fountains abound here because of the springs. A map of Lanjarón shows no fewer than 15 fountains in this very small town!  Each one is accompanied by a charming quotation, artfully painted in blue on white tiles.  Several are quotes from Federico Garcia Lorca. Here are just a few:

I had time for just one quick walk this afternoon, and I was eager to see a bit of this part of Spain which is called "Las Alpujarras." I chose a walk up to the ruins of a 14th century castle. This one was built by Nazarian kings Yusuf I and Mohammad V to protect Granada from possible invasions from the Southeast. 

The walk begins alongside a little stream .... yep, fed by those springs. About half an hour along the wooded path, I catch a glimpse of my destination far ahead:

Below is the view of Lanjarón from near the top of the castle. It was windy up here, a great howling wind that had me clutching my camera tightly and clinging to the stone walls.

On the walk back to town along a different path, I encountered more olive trees. And a Siamese cat that kept me company for quite some time! He was un-photographable, refusing to pose nicely.

Tomorrow I get up early to catch a bus that will take me down to the sea. Just for the day.